Living in Tulum: The Ultimate Expat Guide
When I’m moving to a new place… I’m a person who does extensive research. What’s my best way to get there? Where will I live? Where will my local coffee shop be? What’s the best, local food to eat? What will everything cost me?
I did my standard “over-researcher” procedure before I moved to Tulum, MX in September 2022. However, when I immersed myself in Tulum for 8 months, I got to know the ins & outs of the town. I found things that I hadn’t found in my previous research, which could have made some of my stay a lot easier.
I get many DMs and texts about “how to do Tulum,” and so here I am, laying it all out for you.
This can be used as a guide if you are going for a fun party weekend, but mostly, this is for the person who is trying to make Tulum their (temporary or permanent) home.
I don’t get paid for any of the items I mention in this blog, it’s purely for the joy of sharing.
MY TULUM STORY
I went to Tulum for the first time in July 2021 to visit my sister. My visit was for 8 days and it completely captured my heart. It was the birthplace of my healing journey (I know, typical American statement, blah, blah, blah), but truly, Tulum gives you exactly what you need. At the time, my life needed a psychedelic blast-off that would lead me to changing nearly every aspect of my life, which is exactly what I did.
My second time back was for 5 weeks in Feb 2022 and this was a completely different experience than the first. It was this trip that made me realize that Tulum gives you chapters. No visit is the same, even if you are doing exactly the same thing. Tulum, and its vortex of energy, has the ability to open your eyes, slam your heart open, twirl you around, completely flip your life upside down, or a combination of all of those things.
After going yet through another uprooting in my personal life in Q1 2022, I decided I needed to start over. I needed to go somewhere where my heart felt free to integrate a year of deep change. And so, in September 2022, I packed a few bags & my dog & headed to… you guessed it… Tulum. I spent 8 months total there, with a 1-month US visit in between.
My 3 different trips to Tulum
Here is what I discovered:
HOW TO GET TO TULUM
You will take a flight into Cancun to get to Tulum. Although, I did hear they are opening a Tulum international airport at the end of 2023, so if you are reading this after December 2023, you may have new options!
Anyways… you are entering into Mexico, so my best advice is not carrying a bunch of cash on you or a lot of valuable things. I have heard of friends having their suitcases raided at the airport where they needed to pay off people with the cash they had on hand. It hasn’t happened to me, but it can happen. My best advice is the travel light & keep $200 USD cash on your person, in case of emergency. There are plenty of easy ways to get cash once you are in Tulum (see tips & tricks section).
When you get your bags and are headed to the curb, there will be tons of people trying to sell you things, giving you the “best price for the taxi” or rental cars, and many other things… stay focused. You don’t need to talk to everyone that is selling things.
There are a few options to get from Cancun to Tulum :
Book a shared bus ahead of time. The shared bus (more like a small van) costs between $15-$50 and is about a 1.5-2.5 hour ride. I would be careful with this option. I have had friends book these shuttles & make it effortlessly to Tulum with no issues. A shuttle driver will be waiting for you outside with your name on a sign and will have you to Tulum in no time. My dad & I, however, had 2 separate experiences where we booked shared shuttles through BDExperience and they never showed up. They told us that the bus would take hours to get there, and eventually that it wouldn’t be coming at all. We both lost $40 USD for the shuttle ride and never saw the money again. The customer service was terrible and we had to pay additional money to get a cab to Tulum.
Your next option is to take a taxi. It will run you $100-$150 USD and will take 1.5-2.5 hours depending on traffic. This is the best option if you are traveling with a person or two. A tip for this option, the taxis WILL try and rip you off. They will say the cab is $200-$250 and that there is nothing cheaper. That is not true. Keep moving and ask the different taxi companies until you find one that will have you pay around $100-$120. You can do it, don’t give up. Haha.
The cheapest way to get to Tulum is by taking the ADO bus. I believe it costs less than $15 and is considered Mexico’s public transit. I have never taken this option, so if you would like to, you may have to do a little more research on your own :)
On your way back to the Cancun airport when your trip is over, taking a taxi is the easiest way. Try and make friends with a taxi driver in Tulum during your stay and they will most likely offer you a better rate!
WHERE TO STAY
Below is a map of Tulum, roughly highlighted by popular zones. Yellow is the private beach (hotel zone), orange is the public beach zone, purple is Centro, red is Aldea Zama, and blue is La Valeta.
Hotels on the beach
The public & private beach sides are separated by the street Avenida Coba. North of Avendia Coba (on the beach) is considered the “public” beach. You will need to enter this side of the beach on the North end, at the same entrance as the Tulum Ruins (this is a new change that has just been implemented). There are some beach clubs/hotels and beautiful beaches on the North end. South of Avenida Coba is considered the private beach, or Hotel Zone. These are where the large beach clubs reside, as well as many incredible steak houses and restaurant experiences. More than likely, this is where you have seen a lot of the Tulum-aesthetic Instagram content.
If you are looking for a fun weekend on the beautiful Caribbean without caring too much about money, check out the Hotel Zone. There are beach side bungalows, pools overlooking the water, and beach parties where you can dance under the stars. Every hotel cost is different, depending on the season and the location. NOTE: hotel zone is about 3-4x the cost of living in town. The feel of Hotel Zone is not Mexico. It is tailored to tourists and overpriced things that look Tulum-y.
I’ve only stayed on the beach a few nights, but have experienced and/or heard great things about Diamante K, Nueva Vida, Ikal, and BT Live Tulum. You most likely cannot go wrong with a hotel on the beach if that’s where you choose to stay, just note that it will be more difficult to get into town and you will probably just end up staying on the beach strip your whole vacation.
Centro
Living in Centro is quite a blast. If you are looking to have a louder, Mexico-feeling experience, this is for you. Out your door will be vendors, local restaurants and taco trucks, stray pups, and many great markets. I lived in Centro for 1 month and had a great time, but I was definitely ready for more peace & quiet when the month was over.
If you are staying in Centro, I recommend staying near Avenida Tulum in between Avenida Coba and Avenida Kukulkan. There is great walking access to a lot of fun restaurants and shops. I stayed at Nuee Tulum and had a very nice experience. I’ve also heard great things about Tuk Tulum.
Note that living in Centro, you will be a few miles away from the beach. A taxi from Centro to the Hotel Zone is anywhere from $20-$50 each way, depending on the season. If you want to stay in Centro (as well as Aldea Zama and La Valeta), I’m a firm believer that you need a mode of transportation. See “How to Get Around” section for more on this.
Aldea Zama
I lived in Aldea Zama for 2 months. You will see in most articles that this is the safest option to live. To be honest, I felt safe in every place I lived. As a female traveler, I’m not walking anywhere alone at night, in any neighborhood, and that is the same way I would feel even living in the US.
Aldea Zama has a lot of new developments and many expats living there. My personal opinion is that I felt like I was living in the US when I lived there. There isn’t a special Mexico-feel about it to me. There aren’t taco trucks, or local spots to eat. There is a cute strip with a few cafes and restaurants, but it’s not my personal favorite.
La Valeta
In my opinion, La Valeta takes the cake for the best spot to live as a Nomad in Tulum. I lived there for 6 months and fell in love with it. There is a lot of new construction, but everything looks unique. The roads are mostly dirt (with massive potholes everywhere), but La Valeta has so much character. There are local restaurants sprinkled throughout the streets and a grounded-nature about it that really makes it feel like home.
There is not much more to say about La Valeta, other than saying that I will move back there every time I go back.
Where to find accommodations
Air bnb is a great route for booking a place to stay if you are staying anywhere under 2 weeks.
If you are planning a long term stay, I recommend finding a place to stay outside of air bnb to avoid the nasty fees. I randomly found a real estate agent who rents places to expats, it’s not hard to find if you just ask around. A good option is to rent an airbnb for 2-3 days upon arrival and then look at long-term stays during the first few days.
When you are looking at your long-term rental space, here are a few things to check for. I have made the mistakes in the past not to check, and majorly regretted it.
How close is construction? There is construction EVERYWHERE in Tulum. I would go to the property of your choosing at 10am on a weekday and see the noise level in the area. Construction starts at 6am and ends at about 7pm Monday-Saturday. If you do not like the noise level, do not commit to staying there. I did this one time and almost lost my mind within 1 month. LOL.
Check to see if there is hot water. Just do it.
Take pictures of everything when you get there. Every long-term stay requires a deposit, ranging from $500 to 1 month rent. Do a walk-through with the leasing agent. TAKE YOUR TIME. Mark any imperfections & take photos while the leasing agent is in your presence. Send them to the leasing agent & write a little report upon signing your lease. The extra effort up front is worth it on the back end.
Check WiFi speed. I had great WiFi in all my places, but it’s always good to check!
Don’t believe it when they say “this is the last place available for this price.” Every leasing agent says this, but the truth is, tourism was down massively in 2023 in Tulum. If the place isn’t perfect for you, don’t do it. You will find another spot that suits you perfectly.
Rent prices are slightly negotiable. If you want a few thousand pesos off, it never hurts to ask.
HOW TO GET AROUND
Tulum might seem like a small place on the map, but you will want a mode of transport if you are living there. Walking around is great for a while, but if you are wanting to do the fun activities & get to the beach often, you need a whip!
Renting a car is WILDLY expensive in Tulum. If you are staying for a few days, you can rent one in Cancun for your stay. This will also save you the bus/taxi fare to & from the airport. If you do have a car, I would recommend paying for parking if you go to the beach road. You will see some cars parked on the side of the road, but I have seen many-a-tourist taking a taxi to the local tow yard after parking on the side instead of a paid lot. Be overly cautious while driving and very respectful if you somehow get pulled over.
Getting around via Taxi is just downright not worth it if you plan to stay a while. The taxis charge anywhere from $20-$50 each way to get to the beach. If you want to get around via taxi, I would just rent a car.
ATVs are pretty popular in Tulum. If you want 4 wheels for a short stay, this may be the way to go. I believe they rent for about $30 / day.
If you feel more comfortable on 2 wheels, with no motor, you can easily find a bicycle to buy. You can pay anywhere from $50-$200 for a bike and resell it when you are leaving. The downfall of a bike is that buying groceries is hard and you show up to every event sweating. If you do get a bike, LOCK IT UP everywhere you go. I have heard many stories of bike theft. Invest in a good lock and put it close to your building. If you pull a lazy move and put it on a tree because you don’t want to deal with the bike racks, there is a chance it will be stolen.
February 2022 on my trusted bicycle and June 2023 on my trusted scooter
The best way to get around Tulum is, hands down, a scooter. There is a Tulum Buy & Sell Whatsapp chat & Facebook group where travelers are always selling their scooters. You can get a good one for $450-$600 USD and resell it when you leave. The gas tank costs about $5 USD to fill and will last you about a week. NOTE: almost none of the scooters have up-to-date papers. Just make sure the scooter has plates & papers and then be smart when you are driving. Buy a good helmet from Italika ($40-$50 USD) and drive with caution. I drove the scooter around for 5 months and never had one issue. If you are stopped by the police (hopefully I can say this online) just tell them you are renting the scooter. Boom, done. A scooter will make you feel like a free bird in Tulum and will completely change your experience of the town.
BEST THINGS TO DO
All things in the water
My happy place is in the water, so that’s where I spend most of my down time. Tulum is filled with beautiful beaches, pristine fresh water swimming holes (aka Cenotes), and Lagoons.
Beaches
The public side of the beach is perfect for a chill day in the water. There are a lot of great local vendors offering cheap beers, trinkets, & empanadas. Trust me, get the empanadas. My favorite beach on the public side is Playa Paraiso. If you want a very laid back day with good food options & chairs, try Ikal. If you are wanting a low-key beach club day on this side, try Cinco or Canova.
The private side (hotel zone) has some beautiful beaches, restaurants, & shops. You have to go through a hotel/beach club to get to the water on this side. This also means, there will most likely be a minimum spend if you choose this as your Sea option for the day. My favorite place on this side of the beach is Delek. Once you are on the beach, you can hop around and find a club that suits you best. Every Sunday from 2-5pm, Delek hosts Ice Bath Mexico for drop in ice baths. This is a fun Sunday reboot. If you do stop by, tell Janis & Jeff that Camille sent you. :)
NOTE: there is a ton of smelly seaweed (aka Sargassum) on the beaches of Tulum from time to time. It comes & goes more often these days, and when it arrives, it’s not as fun to go to the beach. In those moments, worry not, you can always opt for Cenotes or Lagoons.
Cenotes
A cenote is a natural pit, or sinkhole, resulting from the collapse of limestone bedrock that exposes groundwater. The Cenotes in Tulum are connected underground by miles & miles of underwater tunnels, making it a beautiful place to scuba dive or freedive.
My favorite cenotes to spend the day are Escondido and Calavera. These are about 150 pesos to enter and have ample room to set up a blanket with snacks and have a beautiful day.
If you are looking for an EXPERIENCE - you must go to Cenote Sac Actun. This is a cave tour (about $35 per person) and is truly something you will never forget. The Cenote is a little farther away, but trust me, it is worth it.
Cenote Escondido
Lagoons
Lagoons are a great spot to relax, wade in crystal clear water, and maybe take out some paddle boards or kayaks. My favorites are Laguna Kaan and Neek.
Music
If you’re looking for some late night fun, Tulum has some epic music experiences.
Palma Central has salsa dancing every Tuesday night. There is a lesson from 7-8pm and then a free-for-all until 12am. Palma is set up with tons of food trucks, vendors, and bars. This is a really fun experience to feel like a local and get your groove on.
Jungle Parties & DJs are very common & can be really fun if you want a wild night. Some great DJs come to Tulum and play at places like Temphlo, Zamna, hidden venues in the jungle, and all the beach clubs. There are buses that will take you into the jungle for DJs that will play from 7pm to 7am. My favorite is Temphlo because it’s close enough to town where you don’t feel like you are stuck in the middle of the jungle if you are dying to go to bed. At any of the festivals in Tulum, just be smart. Don’t buy party favors from people you don’t trust. Keep your heart open and all that you desire will find you, that’s just how Tulum works. You can follow ‘tulum.party’ on Instagram to see where all upcoming events are.
Vagalume is a total vibe for a weekend day party. You are clubbing on the beach, which makes for a special experience. Usually there is a table spend limit, so make sure you check before you get there. You can reserve a table through their instagram page.
La Pizzine in Centro has a funky music night every Monday. It’s a great vibe and fun place to dance the night away while staying close to where you live.
Walking Tours
I love walking the streets of Tulum and seeing all the fun markets, shops, and restaurants. You can easily spend a day or two walking around Avenida Coba, Avenida Tulum, and the beach road. If you want to stay on a walking tour vibe, I would look into spending a day at the Tulum Ruins. It is a bit touristy, but it’s fun to see the Mayan culture of the place. If you plan to check out the ancient beauty, go as early as you can in the morning to avoid how bloody hot it gets during the day.
Tulum Ruins
Small Trips Near Tulum
Just outside of Tulum are many wonderful day (or two) trips that you can take. If you plan to stay a while, I would recommend doing at least one of these so you can feel the different energies of the surrounding cities.
2.5 hours south of Tulum is a very beautiful little town called Bacalar. It sits on a crystal clear Lagoon, with cute restaurants and shops sprinkled about.
1.5 hours North is Playa Del Carmen. I spent one month in PDC and thought it was a great place to spend some time. You can take the ferry to Cozumel from there, or spend the day at the massive outdoor shopping mall on 5th street. If you go to PDC, make a stop at El Fogon for the best tacos ever. You can take the Colectivo (public transit bus) for 50 pesos from Tulum to PDC.
3 hours North of Tulum is Isla Holbox. I barely want to include it here, because I want to keep it a secret, but alas, I must include it. You can take the ADO bus from Tulum to Chiquila, then take a small ferry onto Isla Holbox. The town is vibrant and alive. There is music everywhere, dancing on street corners, bioluminescence on the beaches, and incredible food. This is one of the places you go and immediately think, “should I move here?” The prices are so good in this town, it is well worth the trip if you will be in the Yucatan for a few months.
WHERE TO EAT
Tulum has food that is to die for. Not just Mexican food, every cuisine. You could spend unlimited time just trying all the delicious spots. This is a list of food joints where I spent the most time. The underlined items are can't-miss places.
NOTE: Tulum has a food delivery app called Tomato.mx. If you want to stay cozy in your house, download the app & take it for a spin! The service is quick and a lot of places have no delivery charge.
Picking up groceries
Chedraui (in Centro): large supermarket perfect for big grocery hauls
Pool (in Centro): local markets with great fruits, vegetables, juices, nuts, rice, oats, etc
Chultun Fresh Market (in La Valeta): my favorite market in La Valeta for fresh mangos & juices
Breakfast
Otti: stop by Otti for a morning Cacao & quick bite to eat. This is a really popular place with a great community aspect. If you go here more than once, you will end up making a friend, or 10.
El Rincon: really cheap, local Mexican breakfast
Raum: the most delicious sweet/savory morning pancake stack. Not your typical breakfast items, but a great vibe & great food.
Italdo: incredible italian bakery with great coffee, bread, baked goods, and sandwiches
Ikal: a beautiful breakfast/lunch spot on the beach. The perfect spot for a morning coffee & ocean dip
Nimeno: delicious baked goods, croissants that are sent from the heavens
Liefs: hands down the best coffee I’ve ever had. They only have 1 iced coffee with foamy coconut milk on the menu and just trust me you will crave it for eternity. The food is all vegan and very tasty.
Lunch
Italdo: pizza, sandwiches, and fresh baked sourdough everything
Taqueria Honorio: the most traditional style Mexican tacos. So cheap, so delicious. It’s open 6:30am-3pm, there is always a line, and once you eat there you will know why.
Long Time Coffee: coffee & traditional chinese dumpling house. Homemade with a lot of love, I crave this constantly. They have strange hours, so it’s best to check their Instagram for updated hours. They also have a sister restaurant called Wang’s in Centro, which is equally as mouthwatering.
Los Primos - 10 peso empanadas, it’s a yes from me for quick, cheap, yummy snacks.
Mayami Burger: the best burger in Tulum and 2:1 Mezcalita Maracuya for happy hour.
Dinner
El Tio tacos: one of my favorite taco trucks, and they have a permanent restaurant in Centro. I recommend the Al Pastor tacos, I think it’s 5 tacos for 50 pesos. Score.
Palma Central: a great place to go if you have a lot of people wanting different things. It’s a food truck experience with live music & vendors. They have great sushi, american bbq, asian, burgers, & many more!
La Guarida: an adorable vibey spot to get drinks & appetizers.
Tu: the most beautiful craft cocktails in Tulum. The perfect place for a sexy date night
La Negra Tomasa: incredible (& cheap) seafood in Centro. My favorites from here are the cooked shrimp ceviche & the frito de atun taco.
Canova: the cutest Italian restaurant in La Valeta. The food always hits the spot & we are shocked every time at how good the price is. My favorite here is the lasagna.
Pepe’s Tacos: best taco truck in La Valeta (maybe in all of Tulum?). Grab a pastor & mixto taco and you will be very happy.
Boccanera: amazing pizza in La Valeta. This is my go-to when ordering from the tomato.mx app
Illios: If you want a fun experience on the beach road, this is the place to go. They give you the full instagram-worthy Tulum experience with loud music, sparklers, and smashing the greek plates.
Casa Banana: the best steak house in Tulum
Check Point Pizza: the best pizza in Tulum and it’s right on the beach outside of Delek Beach Club. The perfect place to end a sunny beach day
Left to Right: Otti Cacao, Wang dumplings, Chultan juice
Pool market, Italdo toast, fresh market fruits
WHERE TO WORK
Being an expat in Tulum is very easy. Most places have great WiFi, other people working, and yummy things to snack on while you work. I’m a person who works mostly at home, but these are the places I would go to if I wanted to switch up the scenery a bit:
Real Coconut in Centro, or on the beach! This space has great WiFi and a very cute atmosphere. I love ordering one of their specialty lattes and sitting in the garden for a few hours to work.
Ikal is my favorite place to work for the day on the beach. There is no minimum spend, so it’s easy to order a latte/tea and work there all day. You can take mini beach walk breaks and enjoy Tulum’s crystal blue water. They also have beds/canopies that you can rent for the day :)
Amansala is another cute spot to work on the beach. They are a little more strict there, so just tell them you are going to the restaurant for breakfast. You will see many other people working there and in the morning they have free tea/coffee!
TIPS & TRICKS & THINGS TO SKIP
DO NOT drink the tap water. There are companies that deliver 5 gal water jugs and some rentals even come with free-water delivery. Personally, I got 2, 5-gal jugs at the local OXXO and would take one back for a refill on my scooter once a week. This was the easiest method for me and only 35 pesos to fill the whole jug.
Most places don’t come with laundry. I didn’t have laundry in any of my apartments, but it wasn’t something high on my priority list. You can do your own laundry at Bo’s Laundry & Coffee. I opted for a laundry pick-up and delivery service with Lavanderia Mama Maria. You can text them on Whatsapp for same-day pick up. They return your laundry clean & folded within 24 hours. You can also pay a 50% extra fee for same-day delivery. They never lost a single piece of my clothing and my clothes were never cleaner. I think I paid about $10 every 10 days for the service. Can’t beat it!
Santino is a bar in Centro that is open late-night. Most of the beach clubs close at 12am and everyone makes their way into town to party later. In my opinion, I wouldn’t be hanging out here at night. I’ve had a fun night dancing there, but I’ve also heard some not-so-great stories about this joint.
ATM trick: there aren’t too many ATMs in Tulum. The ones with the best rates are at Banco Azteca, Santander, or in a small bank next to BIO-Natural Tulum on Avendia Coba (orange building). The trick with the ATM is that you CAN decline the conversion fee. When you are taking out cash, there will be a service charge which you have to accept (less than 100 pesos), then they will show you a 12.5% (or something crazy) for a conversion charge… DENY IT. You will still get your cash, without paying an astronomical fee.
If you need to take a large chunk of money out, I would use the Remitly app. You can send yourself money to Banco Azteca (in La Valeta) for a $3.99 (roughly) fee. Bring your passport to the bank and pick up your money effortlessly. The bank usually has a really long line, so I would try going around 2pm, or right when the bank opens. If you plan to do this option, try and set up the app beforehand in case they need to spend a few days confirming your bank. If you DM me on Instagram @camillejoannexo - I will give you a $25 coupon to sign up with Remitly :)
WRAPPING UP
Even though Tulum is becoming overpopulated and has a ton of construction, there is something very special about it. Tulum will call you when you are ready and will let you know when it’s time to leave. I know that sounds vague, but it will make sense when you get there. I had an absolute blast living there for 8 months and made friendships that I will hold dearly for life.
If you are a solo traveler, Tulum is a place that will easily make you feel at home. It's easy-to-navigate, has incredible food, welcoming travelers, and many experiences where you can get out of your comfort zone and meet new people. The only way to fully embrace Tulum is to lead with your heart. Say yes to new things that excite you and let Tulum give you the experience you need.
Happy traveling, cheers!
Tulum rooftop sunsets
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